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Craft Forum / Textile / Sewing / March 2005



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Basting Stitch

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jack@schmidling.com - 15 Mar 2005 00:59 GMT
The sewing machine discussion got me browsing for a limitation I find
on my
"discount store machine".

All the patterns I have be looking at talk about machine basting but my
Brother is limited to 4mm stitch length which is useless for basting.

I browsed around the web looking at more (much) expensive machines and
find
the same limitiation.

How does one baste with a machine?

js

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gpjones2938@mchsi.com - 15 Mar 2005 01:19 GMT
Dear Jack,

The largest stitch on your machine is meant for machine basting.  If it
does not come out easily, you may need to loosen the tension, but mark
it before you do this, so that you can return it to its original
setting.  My machine is pretty basic, and the largest setting is 4.0.
I use it all the time.  I've never had to change the tensions.  (My
machine is in the $500 range.)

Teri
Taria - 15 Mar 2005 01:57 GMT
My Bernina has a basting stitch.  It lengthens the longest stitch
to something over 1/2" if I remember right.
Taria

> The sewing machine discussion got me browsing for a limitation I find
> on my
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
> http://schmidling.com
Barbara Raper - 15 Mar 2005 02:38 GMT
In the early 1970's I had a Singer slant needle that had a basting stitch
that would sew stitches about 1/2 inch.
Barbara in FL & SC

> My Bernina has a basting stitch.  It lengthens the longest stitch
> to something over 1/2" if I remember right.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> > Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
> > http://schmidling.com
IMS - 15 Mar 2005 02:54 GMT
I've got an old Touch and Sew and a Athena 2000 that does a great
basting stitch...the stitches are over 1" long.

-Irene

>In the early 1970's I had a Singer slant needle that had a basting stitch
>that would sew stitches about 1/2 inch.
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>> > Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
>> > http://schmidling.com

--------------
You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.
--Mae West
--------------
jack@schmidling.com - 17 Mar 2005 05:18 GMT
My Wife's broken Touch and Sew has a slant needle and I am curious to
know what the point of it is.

js
Pogonip - 17 Mar 2005 07:07 GMT
> My Wife's broken Touch and Sew has a slant needle and I am curious to
> know what the point of it is.
>
> js

The idea was to get the actual sewing area out in front so that the
operator had a clearer view.  Early on, it was also believed that you
could leave the pins in the fabric and the slant of the needle would
cause it to slide off the pin.  That proved to be too optimistic.
Signature


Joanne @ stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us
http://bernardschopen.tripod.com/
Life is about the journey, not about the destination.

IMS - 18 Mar 2005 00:20 GMT
>My Wife's broken Touch and Sew has a slant needle and I am curious to
>know what the point of it is.
>
>js

The first "slant shank" machine was the Singer 301 which came out in
October of 1952.  The manual states: "Full view work area.  Inclined
needle bar places work in your direct line of vision."

-Irene  

--------------
You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.
--Mae West
--------------
CySew - 18 Mar 2005 05:09 GMT
That is one of the many reasons I like my old slant needle, Irene, and I sew
over pins all the time, too, as long as they are placed in the fabric
correctly.  I definitely would not want to hit the head of some of them.
Emily
Deb - 15 Mar 2005 12:47 GMT
My janome machine has basting stitch and it allows to to move the
fabric through the machine (feed dog down I think) making the stitch
any length you would like.  You determine the length of the stitch by
how you move the fabric.  it is excellent.
> The sewing machine discussion got me browsing for a limitation I find
> on my
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
> http://schmidling.com
She who would like to be obeyed once every Preston Guild - 15 Mar 2005 14:28 GMT
If you can drop your feed-dog and drive slowly, then why do you need the
basting stitch?

In article <1110887257.635736.248610@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>, Deb
of http://groups.google.com uttered
>My janome machine has basting stitch and it allows to to move the
>fabric through the machine (feed dog down I think) making the stitch
>any length you would like.  You determine the length of the stitch by
>how you move the fabric.  it is excellent.

Signature

AJH
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sierra charlie oscar dot november echo tango

sewingbythesea@aol.com - 15 Mar 2005 16:03 GMT
She who would like to be obeyed once every Preston Guild   Mar 15,
5:28 am     show options

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
From: She who would like to be obeyed once every Preston Guild
<PrestonGu...@my.house> - Find messages by this author
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 13:28:18 GMT
Local: Tues, Mar 15 2005 5:28 am
Subject: Re: Basting Stitch
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If you can drop your feed-dog and drive slowly, then why do you need
the
basting stitch?
---
  One thing I've found the machine basting stitch good for: doing
almost-invisible side hems on curtains/drapes. (That was before I got a
lockstitch machine)
                                                     Cea
jack@schmidling.com - 15 Mar 2005 17:53 GMT
<PrestonGuild@my.house>

> If you can drop your feed-dog and drive slowly, then why do you need
the
> basting stitch?

It doesn't change the need for a basting stitch but if you "drive
slowly"
the stitches will be close together and nothing new is accomplished.  I
suppose you could say drive slowly and push fast. It is however, a very
interesting idea.

I tried using the spring action quilting foot and got the same effect
without having to lower the dog which can not be done on my machine.
It
uses a "darning plate" as a cheap alternative.  As a point of interest,
it
moved and the needle pierced it when futzing this morning.  No damage
done
but that is probably one reasons it is made of plastic.

The problem that remains is getting it to stitch slowly enough for good
control.  I presume this is one of the compromises with a low end
machine.
It growls and grunts when starting slowly and usually takes a few
stitches
before I can slow it down.  This is one feature of my wife's old touch
and
sew that is much nicer.  It also has a long basting stituch using the
programming disks but I never tried it.

I took the machine apart this yesterday and one of those bevel gears is
stripped again. Still can't come up with enough reasons to get it fixed
again.

js

--
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gpjones2938@mchsi.com - 15 Mar 2005 19:35 GMT
Dear Jack,

I taught fashion design for 25 years at three different universities.
We always used the largest stitch on the machine for basting.  There is
little or no need for 1/2 or 1 -inch long basting stitches; this can be
done by hand for pleats or other holding methods.  But for basting
together a garment, applying a zipper, and other areas where firm hold
is required untile the finishing stitching is completed, even cheap
machines can be used.

Teri
Cynthia Spilsted - 16 Mar 2005 18:25 GMT
If you need a longer stitch than even the 'cheap' machines have, then
pin-baste the garment.  A 4 mm stitch is plenty long enough for machine
basting although the 6 or 7 mm that the 'fancy' machines have is even
better.  The main thing to do when machine basting is to loosen off one's
needle tension to make stitch removal much faster.  Even so, I find pulling
out the machine basting quick and easy (even if I haven't loosened the
tension!).  I always baste in zippers, etc. first - saves a lot of time in
the long run!
Cynthia

> Dear Jack,
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Teri
melinda - 17 Mar 2005 06:17 GMT
> If you need a longer stitch than even the 'cheap' machines have, then
> pin-baste the garment.  A 4 mm stitch is plenty long enough for machine
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the long run!
> Cynthia

I recent did some machine basting for the first time on a PJ top I'm
making for DS, had to rip out about half of it as the fabric was out of
place and a little pleated/puckered.  I re-did the bit I took out by
hand.  These days I find that I don't need to baste as much as the
pattern instructions say, when I first started making clothes for myself
I used to pin then hand baste before sewing on the machine - every seam!

Signature

Melinda
<http://cust.idl.com.au/athol>

gpjones2938@mchsi.com - 15 Mar 2005 19:38 GMT
Dear Jack,

I got to preaching about basting, and forgot to tell you how great your
pictures are.  Your owls seem to be quite content in their house.  How
many chicks do they normally lay?  Will all survive?

I'm a city girl who would love to live in the country.

Teri
jack@schmidling.com - 17 Mar 2005 05:16 GMT
<gpjones2938@mchsi.com>
> I got to preaching about basting, and forgot to tell you how great your
> pictures are.  Your owls seem to be quite content in their house.  How
> many chicks do they normally lay?

Thanks for the kind words but they actually lay eggs :)

The most hatchlings we have seen was 3. Unless you see them lined up on
a
branch, it's hard to tell by counting heads that pop out of the hole.
A few
years ago, we did see the 3 on a branch just at dusk.

Back to basting... I just got a pattern for a coat which seems to
require
more basting than stitching.  I am way over my head but going to charge
ahead as soon as the boys are sheared.

My trophies to date are the wool shirt described on my Fiber page and 4
variations on this theme made from cheapo fabrics to get the patern
right.

js

--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
http://schmidling.com
 
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