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Craft Forum / Textile / Sewing / February 2010



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pattern making

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PenelopeLee - 17 Feb 2010 04:13 GMT
Forgive my ignorance first off! I attempted to search for answers on old
posts.
Overwhelming! I'm looking for help on pattern making. I make all my
dresses and
use what is now a homemade pattern. How it started I'll never know. (
friends, &
pieces here and there)I have trouble designing collars, especially that
fold down.
What are the rules to know the length to fit the neckline? Also are there
any good
references for seeing collars to get ideas? My imagination tires and i
like to
just look at something and try drawing it. Are there any books just on
collars and
necklines? bodices...yokes...?? I don't and won't use a diff. manufactured
pattern
each time. I have 2 bodices that fit well and just want to continue to
alter
yokes, necklines, and collars, but I'm ready for more advanced trials.
your ideas
are welcomed! thank you !!
Penelope Lee
-------------------------------------

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nobody - 17 Feb 2010 08:21 GMT
> Forgive my ignorance first off! I attempted to search for
> answers on old posts.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> advanced trials. your ideas
> are welcomed! thank you !!

Threads had an article about pattern drafting software:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/6111/pattern-drafting-software

You might take a look at one of the Wild Ginger pattern
making programs:
http://www.wildginger.com/products/patternmaster.htm

http://livingsoftnw.com/

http://cochenille.com/

http://mypatterndesigner.com/MPD/Home.htm

http://www.patternmakerusa.com/PatternMaker%20Store/software.html

http://www.fashioncad.net/

http://www.optitex.com/en/products/main_modules

or a book:
http://www.fashionpatterns.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products
_id=69

Kate XXXXXX - 17 Feb 2010 10:10 GMT
> Forgive my ignorance first off! I attempted to search for answers on old
> posts.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> are welcomed! thank you !!
>  Penelope Lee

Look into learning to draft you own patterns.  There are lots of
different pattern drafting books on Amazon, but the basic one I go back
to time and time again is Winifred Aldrich's series on Mertric Pattern
Cutting.

Another good source for altering a good basic pattern is the Vintage
sewing site, which has lots of older book info on line and is a great
help: > http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-toc.html

And then there is David Page Coffin's Shirtmaking book that has a lot
about shirt collars in it.

Signature

Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Kay Lancaster - 17 Feb 2010 22:42 GMT
> different pattern drafting books on Amazon, but the basic one I go back
> to time and time again is Winifred Aldrich's series on Mertric Pattern
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> And then there is David Page Coffin's Shirtmaking book that has a lot
> about shirt collars in it.

A hearty second to Kate's suggestions.  I'd also add Sue Thompson's Decorative
Dressmaking book, though it's really not pattern drafting in the broadest
sense.  And you might also consider stealing a matching collar and
neckline from commercial patterns (I also used to steal sleeves and armscyes).
BEI Design - 17 Feb 2010 23:10 GMT
> > different pattern drafting books on Amazon, but the
> > basic one I go back
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> neckline from commercial patterns (I also used to steal
> sleeves and armscyes).

"stealing"??? I'm shocked, SHOCKED!  I borrow myself...

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Beverly
http://ickes.us/default.aspx

Kate XXXXXX - 17 Feb 2010 23:27 GMT
>>> different pattern drafting books on Amazon, but the
>>> basic one I go back
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> "stealing"??? I'm shocked, SHOCKED!  I borrow myself...

I have Frankenpatterning down to a fine art...  Bodice from here, skirt
from there, sleeves come from this one, collar from that...  And then I
alter them in little ways!  Frankenpatterns.  :)

Signature

Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Olwyn.Mary - 17 Feb 2010 23:39 GMT
> I have Frankenpatterning down to a fine art... Bodice from here, skirt
> from there, sleeves come from this one, collar from that... And then I
> alter them in little ways! Frankenpatterns. :)

Them is what I grew up on.  Mother and grandmother made all my clothes,
I had to stand for HOURS with my arms slightly away from my sides,
circling slowly on command.  I used to BEG for a dress out of the shop!!
Finally got my first one when I was 13!! (School blazer was the
exception.  Got that from the uniform shop when I was 11).

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans
BEI Design - 18 Feb 2010 00:21 GMT
> > I have Frankenpatterning down to a fine art... Bodice
> > from here, skirt from there, sleeves come from this
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> exception.  Got that from the uniform shop when I was
> 11).

I always envied the girls at school who had all their
clothing from RTW shops.  Then our house burned just before
a very important event (my aunt's wedding), and Mom took my
twin and me to Sears for "store-bought" dresses.  They were
lavender and had HOOPS!  Thought I'd died and gone to
heaven.

Mercifully, within a few years I learned how much better
Mom-made was, and grew to appreciate all she did to keep
twin girls clothed.  Identically, until I started making all
my own clothes.

Signature

Beverly
http://ickes.us/default.aspx

BEI Design - 18 Feb 2010 00:25 GMT
> > "stealing"??? I'm shocked, SHOCKED!  I borrow myself...
> >
> I have Frankenpatterning down to a fine art...  Bodice
> from here, skirt from there, sleeves come from this one,
> collar from that...  And then I alter them in little
> ways!  Frankenpatterns.  :)

Love that term!  I don't think I have made a garment
"complete-to-the-last-detail" of a pattern *ever*.  I
thought it was normal to take a bit from this and an idea
from that and combine/alter them to create an "original".
;-)

Signature

Beverly
http://ickes.us/default.aspx

Kate XXXXXX - 18 Feb 2010 10:42 GMT
>>> "stealing"??? I'm shocked, SHOCKED!  I borrow myself...
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> from that and combine/alter them to create an "original".
> ;-)

Certainly is in this house!

There are a few 'perfect' designs, but they are mostly either dead
simple or by someone like Issay Myaki and put out by Vogue (like my
favourite skirt pattern that I have now used 3 times for me, once for Ma
and several times for customers and friends!).

Signature

Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

penelopelee - 26 Feb 2010 19:21 GMT
penelopelee had written this in response to
http://www.sewgirls.com/textiles/Re-pattern-making-4837-.htm  :

>>>> different pattern drafting books on Amazon, but the
>>>> basic one I go back
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> from there, sleeves come from this one, collar from that...  And then I
> alter them in little ways!  Frankenpatterns.  :)

-------------------------------------
I didn't know my method of sewing had a name!...Frankenpatterns... Thanks
so
much for all the inputs.  This is how Ive been designing but honestly I
didn't
know if it was "correct". I have just come to find a few designs I can't
figure
out how to piece into my necklines. I need them modest. Wildginger is
WILD! I
love it. But it looks like overkill for me. Thanxs to all. I'll look up
books
too!

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Kay Lancaster - 18 Feb 2010 10:42 GMT
>> really not pattern drafting in the broadest sense.  And
>> you might also consider stealing a matching collar and
>> neckline from commercial patterns (I also used to steal
>> sleeves and armscyes).
>
> "stealing"??? I'm shocked, SHOCKED!  I borrow myself...

Never gave 'em back to the original pattern. <g>

You would prefer "teefing"?
 
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